My Ascent to the Peak of Africa
Kilimanjaro in September 2023
Part 2
Day 3 - September 5, 2023 (Tuesday)
Horombo Hut to Kibo Hut, Elevation: 4730 meters
The morning greeted us with a bone-chilling cold as we prepared to embark on our hike to Kibo Hut, situated at an elevation of 4730 meters. We anticipated that this journey would be arduous due to the high altitude and frigid weather conditions. Setting out almost simultaneously, we began our ascent further up the mountain.
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| Briefing and doa' before starting the hike to Kibo |
As we pressed onward and crossed several ridges, we eventually arrived at the 'Saddle,' a desolate expanse of alpine desert nestled between Kilimanjaro's two primary peaks, Mawenzi and Kibo. This barren terrain was utterly devoid of life, save for a scattering of grass. The unending stretch of lifeless land was made even more punishing by the relentless African sun and the biting cold winds that assailed us. In an attempt to boost our spirits, our guides sang along the way, providing some solace as we concentrated on our steps and breathing. It was undoubtedly a challenging endeavor.
Suddenly, one of our fellow hikers stumbled and fell, experiencing severe nausea. He appeared incredibly weak, and two of our guides had to support him on either side, guiding him along at a slow pace. We hoped he would recover once we reached Kibo Hut.
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| Somewhere along the trail |
We paused for lunch midway through our trek, taking a break to rest on the rocky boulders along the pathway. The seemingly never-ending climb continued as we walked slowly, with Kibo Huts visible in the distance, yet the journey felt interminable. The path didn't appear excessively steep, except perhaps for the very last section, but the thin air, depleted of oxygen, transformed this into a considerable ordeal.
Finally reaching Kibo Huts at 4730 meters, the 10.3-km hike that had taken nearly seven hours felt mind-numbingly monotonous. Kibo Hut itself was a stone-built blockhouse with bunk beds, and there were no water sources nearby. This was a convergence point for hikers from different routes.
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| Break for Lunch |
Once inside the hut, there was a sense of relief and warmth, though the temperature still lingered around 3 to 4°C. With the aid of proper clothing and a sleeping bag, we managed to stay reasonably warm. I promptly added additional layers as if preparing for the summit push later that night.
We had dinner at 6:30 pm and tried to rest, but the thin, cold air made sleep a challenging endeavor.
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| Kibo Hut 4730m elevation |
On several occasions, I found myself needing to visit the toilet, which was located a short distance down the hillside from our hut. This was partly due to the cold weather, which made the journey a bit uncomfortable, and also because I was consciously drinking a substantial amount of water to ensure I stayed properly hydrated. With a slight feeling of dizziness and a lack of sufficient sleep, I made my way back to the hut, but I ended up taking a wrong turn that led me towards the mountainside.
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| Aloe Dichotoma |
It wasn't until I realized I was on the wrong path that I looked up and saw a massive, imposing sight before me – Mount Kilimanjaro. My heart began to race at the sheer magnitude of the mountain. In a rush, I executed a 180-degree turn and retraced my steps back to the toilet area. Only then did I notice that there were two distinct routes, and this time, I chose the correct one that led me back to the hut. Huh!
Day 4 - September 6, 2023 (Wednesday)
Summit Push to Uhuru Peak, Elevation: 5,895 meters
At 11:30 pm, we were fully prepared to embark on our ascent to the summit, scaling the highest free-standing mountain in the world, often referred to as the "Roof of Africa." The temperature had dropped below freezing, but with all my layers of clothing, I felt reasonably confident in facing the ultimate challenge.
Right on schedule, at 12:15 am, we commenced our summit push. We proceeded cautiously and deliberately, adhering to the Swahili adage "pole-pole," meaning "slowly," and I began to sense the vertical ascent as we navigated the switchbacks in a zigzag pattern.
We managed our slow pace exceptionally well, focusing on regulating our breathing and maintaining careful footing. Our breaks were short, lasting only 1 to 2 minutes, during which we caught our breath and sipped some water. Our determination kept us pushing forward, inching our way up towards Gilman's Point.
At around 3 am, we paused along the route, finding ourselves at a considerable altitude with a breathtaking view of the mountain. The guides kindly provided us with tea to help warm our bodies during the brief 10-minute break. After this refreshing interlude, we continued our ascent.
However, as time passed, one of our fellow hikers expressed his reluctance to continue. He explained that he was feeling excessively cold and decided it was best for him to descend. Despite the challenges, I remained resolute and tried to maintain a positive mindset as we continued the ascent during the sunrise. The sight of the sun rising over the mountain did offer a sense of comfort, even though it was still a struggle to catch our breath in the thinning air.
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| Gilman's Point |
Gilman's Point loomed above, seemingly just 30 meters away, yet it felt both tantalizingly close and frustratingly distant. It was akin to taking ten breaths for every 2 or 3 steps forward. Adding to the challenge was the soft, loose soil underfoot, which caused me to slide back a couple of steps for every 3 or 4 steps I climbed. This led to feelings of frustration, but my resolve remained strong.
I was aware that reaching Gilman's Point at 5,756 meters was a significant milestone in our journey. I knew that once I conquered this steepest part of the vertical climb, it would prepare me to push onward to Uhuru Peak, the highest point on Kilimanjaro. The belief that I had already overcome the most demanding segment of the ascent served as a powerful motivator.
Finally, at 7:45 a.m., I achieved the long-awaited moment of reaching Gilman's Point. A sense of relief washed over me, even though I felt physically drained, with little more than sheer determination propelling me toward the summit of this towering mountain. It was evident that everyone in our group was utterly exhausted, as there was minimal conversation, with each of us focusing solely on our steps and our labored breathing.
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| Stella Point |
From Gilman's Point to Stella Point, we walked along the edge of the crater rim, providing a glimpse into the heart of the mountain. The view was truly astonishing, yet also somewhat intimidating. Thoughts crept into my mind about what might happen if one were to fall inside the crater.
Beyond Stella Point, I could see the immense Kilimanjaro glacier to my left, but my primary focus remained on reaching Uhuru Peak. The journey along the crater rim involved gentle ascents and descents, though at this altitude, everything unfolded in slow motion. It was eerily quiet, punctuated only by the sound of our breathing and the wind.
At Summit - Uhuru Peak
After nearly 2.5 hours, Uhuru Peak, standing at 5,895 meters, came into view, marked by its iconic summit sign. I couldn't quite grasp the reality of my accomplishment. It was an incredibly tough journey, even when compared to the Everest Base Camp route I tackled the previous year.
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| We are at the top of Kilimanjaro |
But then, it hit me—I was here. I was standing on the rooftop of Africa, atop the highest freestanding mountain in the world. The date was etched in my memory: Wednesday, September 6, 2023, 10:15 a.m. I proudly proclaimed that I had successfully conquered Mount Kilimanjaro.
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| Cikgu Selva, retired teacher |
I took a moment to savor the incredible view, the weather, and the thin air. We captured the moment with team photos, and it dawned on me that despite being a proud 53-year-old hiker, the real respect in our group went to Mr. Ramasamy, aged 67, and Cikgu Selva, a retired teacher at 60. Their age was a mere number, and their unwavering determination demonstrated that anything is possible with the right mindset.
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| Proud Malaysian |
Climbing up is a choice, but climbing down is a necessity. It's perilous to linger at high altitudes for extended periods, and the guides consistently emphasized that it was time to begin our descent back to Gilman's Point and continue our hike towards Kibo Hut. Descending presented its own set of challenges, particularly for our knees. Unlike the zigzagging approach we used while ascending, the descent required a more direct route, and the previously slippery soil became our newfound friend.
Decent to Horombo
During the descent, I took advantage of the opportunity to appreciate the surroundings from the vantage point of 5,000 meters. It was truly astonishing to realize just how high we had ascended. I paused for a few pits stops to rest, and it took approximately 3.5 hours to return to Kibo Hut. By 2:15 am, I was inside the hut with Cikgu Selva, marking a grueling 14.5 hours of hiking. I needed to refuel, but I inexplicably lost my appetite—perhaps due to the overwhelming joy of our success, fatigue, or the effects of AMS. Regardless, I knew I had to conserve energy for the forthcoming descent to Horombo Hut, covering another 10 kilometers. I fervently hoped for a reserve of strength.
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| Magnificent View Climb down from Gilman Point |
By around 4 pm, all our team members had returned to Kibo Hut. At precisely 4:30 pm, we commenced the descent to Horombo. I walked at a brisk pace, feeling the terrain slope downward. Regrettably, we began to lose daylight quickly, and darkness enveloped us. It was an unusual experience—walking in the African desert in the dark. My brain was too fatigued to fully register the novelty, as my singular focus was to reach Horombo, grab a quick meal, and rest inside my sleeping bag.
I arrived at Horombo around 9 pm, which meant I had been hiking for a staggering 21 hours. The only explanation for this newfound well of energy was sheer determination.
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| Decent down to Horombo, looking back at Kilimanjaro |
I had a restful night's sleep, utterly fatigued but slumbering like a baby. At around 6:30 am, we were roused by a wake-up call accompanied by a steaming cup of coffee and the customary "washe-washe," providing warm water for our personal hygiene. We began the process of packing our belongings into our duffel bags before making our way to the breakfast area.
Following a hearty breakfast, we embarked on the homeward leg of our journey, tracing our steps back to Marangu Gates. As we approached the end of our adventure, a profound sense of accomplishment and satisfaction radiated through our group, each of us sporting broad smiles and full hearts. It was a journey we would carry with us for a lifetime.
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| With Pg Sulaiman and Mr Ravichandran - The Legend |
Climbing the highest mountain in Africa was an incredible experience, shared with a new team of fellow enthusiasts I had the privilege of meeting. The camaraderie and friendships formed during such an adventure are truly remarkable. Trust me; even if you begin alone, you'll likely encounter an amazing team with shared passions, making new friends along the way.
"Climbing a Mountain isn't just reaching the top; It's also about the moment of Discovery, Challenges, Setbacks Exhaustion and Ultimate Triumph" - SirNoordin
I express my heartfelt gratitude to my new team, including Cikgu Selva Nathan aA/L Kulan Daivelu, Mr. Ramasamy, Dr. Sivan, Suhu, Sharon Ng, Pengiran Sulaiman, and our lead hiker, Mr. Ravichandran, a legend with four Mount Everest summits.
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| Wearing my official Patagonia jacket |
A special thank you goes to my wife and family for their unwavering trust and support, despite the underlying concerns for my health and safety. I also extend my thanks to my #KoyokAdventureTeam, even though they couldn't join, their "bako" was a motivating factor for my success – “Tak de gambar kira tak sampai”, my UNN colleagues, and my friends around the world.
SirNoordin
